Thursday, January 22, 2026

Geology of the National Parks in Pictures - Devils Tower National Monument

My next post about the Geology of the National Parks Through Pictures is from our move across the country from Utah to New York. Along the way we visited 13 National Parks as well as some other sites. This was the 6th National Park along the way.


You can find more Geology of the National Parks Through Pictures as well as my Geological State Symbols Across America series at my website Dinojim.com.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


Obligatory entrance sign shot, however this is probably one of my favorite alignments of the sign to the feature of the park. 

While describing the geology of Devils Tower you would probably want to start with the tower first (duh). However, in order to understand how the tower formed, you need to understand the rocks that were here before the tower, or what would become the tower, some of which still remain. 

While many of the rocks that Devils Tower formed within have long since eroded away, there are still significant amounts of older rocks that the tower currently resides on. You can see some of these rocks as you drive up to the tower from the main entrance (photo with the entrance sign and directly above). 

Geology of the Devils Tower sedimentary rocks. Image courtesy of NPS

The bright red rocks at the base of the hillside are the Spearfish Formation, which can be seen most easily in the photo above without the entrance sign. These rocks, dark red sandstones and maroon siltstones, formed during the Permian and Triassic Periods (~ 225 to 195 million years ago) when this area was covered by a shallow inland sea. The deep red color is from the oxidation (rusting) of iron within the deposits. After the Triassic Period, during the Middle Jurassic (~170 million years ago), the inland seas periodically withdrew producing periods of evaporation. This evaporation lefts gypsum rich deposits in the form of the Gypsum Springs Formation. 

View facing away from the tower. You can see the Spearfish Formation in the distance towards the let half of the photo.

Afterwards, the Middle Jurassic (~165 million years old) Stockade Beaver Shale then represents the deepening of the inland seas, with the shales deposited in deeper waters than the previous Spearfish Formation. The final sedimentary deposits that remain within the park are the Late Jurassic (~155 million years old) coastal dunes and beach deposits of the Hulett Sandstone. Within these rocks that form the cliff edge surrounding the tower, ripples from the former beaches can still be seen. 


The formation of the tower itself is uncertain though. There are several theories that have been proposed with none, to date, taking precedence. It is without a doubt that the tower formed from some variety of magmatic intrusion within the surrounding sedimentary rocks one to two miles below the (former) surface that began about 50 million years ago. This magma then cooled and solidified, forming the basis of the tower itself. Then, around 5 to 10 million years ago, the overriding sedimentary rocks started to erode away and expose the tower, leaving behind the much more resistant rocks. 


The prevailing theories are that Devils Tower formed as a:
  1. Igneous stock. The magma intruded into the sedimentary rock layers forming a body roughly the shape of the modern day tower. The magma then cooled, and eventually the overriding sedimentary rocks eroded away, along the outer edges of the igneous body for the last several million years. 
  2. Laccolith. This is a larger igneous intrusion with a more mushroom shape to it. Again, the magma solidified and then eroded away once the overlying sediment was removed and eventually eroded down to the tower shape as we know it today.
  3. Volcanic plug. Essentially this was the root of a volcano, where magma was rising up through the volcano and eventually as the volcano went extinct, the magma within the volcano solidified. This is deeper within the earth than what is known as a "volcanic neck". The volcanic neck theory is discussed below. 
  4. Maar-diatreme volcano. This is the most recent suggestion where the magma caused the groundwater to become superheated and eventually explode, creating a crater. The crater was then filled with magma and solidified. Eventually the surrounding rocks eroded away, again, leaving the tower as we see it today.


The rock itself is what is known as a phonolite porphyry. Phonolite is a type of igneous rock that is rich in alkali feldspar and moderate amounts of silica (quartz). As you can see in the diagram below, phonolite has one of the highest percentages of alkali feldspar. The alkali feldspar in this instance is orthoclase, which makes up the second part of the rock name - porphyry. Porphyry, AKA porphyritic rocks, are rocks composed of two principle grain sizes, a background, where the mineral crystals are usually indistinguishable, and the much larger crystals, known as phenocrysts. In the photo above, orthoclase is the mineral that makes up the phenocrysts, the large white crystals on a background that is more grey in color.  
Igneous rock diagram. Image courtesy of Moayyed et al., 2008.

But one of the most distinguishable factors of the tower, besides its size amongst a fairly featureless plain, is the columnar jointing. Columnar jointing is what produces those vertical lines seen at a distance of the tower. These columns are roughly hexagonal in shape, however they are not consistent and Devils Tower has many that are pentagonal columns as well, as well as ranging in diameter from 10 feet across to 4 feet across. These columns are formed when the igneous body (magma) is cooling and the magma starts to shrink (contract). This contracting produces stress lines which radiate out through the resulting rock, forming this columnar jointing pattern. These joint lines align perpendicularly to the direction of the cooling front. Since the jointing lines are running vertical, it can be assumed that the cooling front was essentially horizontal above the tower. With the fractures running vertically through the height of the tower, boulders breaking off and forming a pile of boulders, the scree, are fairly common, especially through geological history.


One other theory of the tower's formation is that of a volcanic neck. A volcanic neck is related to the volcanic plug, however a neck would be seen as the central portion of a volcano, as opposed to deep within the earth. In this instance, if this were a volcanic neck, what we would see is that Devils Tower is the core of the volcano, with the sloped sides having been eroded away. However, the jointing pattern, which runs vertically and curves towards the bottom of the tower, indicates that this theory of a volcanic neck is incorrect. If this were a former volcanic neck, the jointing pattern would run towards the center of the tower, as opposed to running nearly vertical.  

References

Monday, January 12, 2026

Geology of the National Parks in Pictures - Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area

 My next post about the Geology of the National Parks Through Pictures is from our move across the country from Utah to New York. Along the way we visited 13 National Parks as well as some other sites. This was the 5th National Park along the way.


You can find more Geology of the National Parks Through Pictures as well as my Geological State Symbols Across America series at my website Dinojim.com.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


My entrance photo shot. This one taken from the northern, Montana entrance, to the park since that is the only part of the park that we visited on this trip. This area is known as the North District. 

Loading ramp at the Ok-A-Beh Marina

Due to our limited time, and the large distance between districts, we only visited a small piece of this park. Here in the North District there was this boat ramp that went down into Bighorn Canyon and we could see some of the oldest rocks within the canyon. While there are older rocks in areas of the canyon outside of easy driving reach, these are the oldest accessible by car. At the boat launch here we have two rocks easily discernable. Along the water's edge is the Madison Limestone (the whiter layer) and just above that is the Amsden Formation. Topping the hills in this region is the Tensleep Sandstone. 

A nice stratigraphic column of the park's rock formations from the NPS

As you can see by the stratigraphic column above, most of the rocks at this end of the park are towards the bottom of the rock record. The Madison Limestone (also known as the Madison Group) is an Early Mississippian Age limestone (~350 million years ago). At this time there was a shallow sea across the region where sea life built up creating the limestone. The Madison Limestone contains abundant fossils from this ancient sea as well as evidence of a ancient karst topography like sinkholes and caves (think modern day Kentucky). 

A cross section of the park's formations. North is on the left with the Montana North District along the left 1/4 of the page. Image courtesy of the NPS.

Above the Madison Limestone is the Amsden Formation. The Amsden Formation disconformably lies on top of the Madison Limestone and is of the earliest Pennsylvanian in age (~320 million years old). By lying disconformably, that means that there was a period of erosion between when the Madison Limestone was deposited and the Amsden Formation was deposited. This erosion produced the ancient karst topography that the Madison Limestone is known for. 

View to the west (left) of the previous image at the Ok-A-Beh Marina.

The Amsden Formation can be broken down into a few different beds, not all of which are represented in this area. In this region, the lowest (and oldest) is the Darwin Sandstone Member. This sandstone is a red and brown quartz arenite sandstone and is thought to have been deposited as a beach/shoreline deposit as the water levels were deepening in the area. As the water continued to deep, above the Darwin Sandstone, the Horseshoe Shale Member was deposited. The Horseshoe Shale is red to grayish red or purple siltstone, shale, and mudstone. These rocks were deposited in the deeper waters of a sea as it transgressed across Wyoming. And lastly, above the Horseshoe Shale is the Ranchester Limestone Member. The Ranchester is made up of yellowish-grey cherty dolomite and limestones, interbedded with sandstone and shale. 

Looking east, near the easternmost extent of the park, midway along OK-A-Beh Road. 

From this view we can see several of the next overriding layers. The road is currently now sitting on the Tensleep Sandstone with the next overriding layer the Triassic Age (~250 to 200 million years ago) Chugwater and Goose Egg Formations at the base of the hill in the distance. Then we have a swift succession of thinly bedded Jurassic Age (~200 to 145 million years ago) formations including, from bottom to top, the Piper Formation, the Rierdon Formation, the Swift Formation, and the Morrison Formation. Capping off the hill is the Cretaceous Age (~145 to 66 million years ago) Kootenai Formation and Thermopolis Shale. 

Geological Map of the Ok-A-Beh Marina area of Bighorn Canyon NRA. Map courtesy of the NPS

These rocks are all thinly bedded sandstones, siltstones, shales, and limestones, that alternate through time. These deposits represent the inland sea as it covered the area and then left the area multiple times with lake and river deposits mixed throughout. The Morrison Formation itself is a world famous dinosaur fossil hotbed that represents terrestrial river deposits during the Jurassic Period. 

Extent of the Laramide Orogeny. Image courtesy of geology.wisc.edu

Following the deposition of these rocks, they were then lifted into the nearby Bighorn Mountains by what is called the Laramide Orogeny that began roughly 70 million years ago through 40 million years ago and had impacted the landscape across the North American west from mid-Montana down through New Mexico. The Laramide Orogeny, or mountain building episode, was caused by the former Farallon Plate off the western coast of North America pushing eastward, causing the compression of the North American Plate and mountains to be forced upwards. The Farallon Plate would late completely subduct beneath North America and would be impactful in forming many National Parks across the Colorado Plateau. 

A little further downstream from the Ok-A-Beh Marina.

As the Bighorn River was eroding the region, the landscape continued to be lifted upwards. The river now contains what are known as "entrenched meanders". These are when a river was in a formerly fairly level plain and allowed to meander back and forth depositing sediment along a neighboring floodplain. However, the landscape is then suddenly  lifted upwards, changing a river that was depositing sediment in a floodplain to an eroding river. The river then cuts downwards into the rocks that are now being forced upwards. This downward erosion is in the shape of the meandering river, causing the meanders to become locked in place, an entrenched meander. The meanders of the Bighorn River were locked in place during the Laramide Orogeny and have been eroding downward steadily ever since.  A more famous example of an entrenched meander can be seen in the Grand Canyon or Dead Horse Point

This last image is just upslope of the Ok-A-Beh Marina and to the left as you follow the Bighorn River. Again you can see here the Madison Limestone just above the river line with the Amsden Formation (the red rocks) on top and the Tensleep Sandstone capping off the hills.  

References
Garber, K. L., et al. "Detrital zircon U-Pb geochronology and provenance of the basal Amsden Formation." Bighorn Mountains: Wyoming Geological Association 72nd Annual Field Conference Guidebook. 2018.